Tracing a branch of the Family Tree - Mid-Century Singers from Featherweight to Touch & Sew

Featherweight --> Touch & Sew

Here is an interesting evolutionary path of one branch of Singer sewing machines. It might be fun to follow along and see the common threads that connected them (no pun intended!) 

Everyone knows the 221/222 Featherweights which debuted in the 1930s, reaching peak popularity in the 1950s.

Besides the portable size, these machines had a few features that elevated them from the earlier Singer models - they had an aluminum body, a flip up extension bed, and a vertical Class 221 bobbin with a full rotary hook. This made them lightweight, compact, and smooth sewing…in that order. Then ran on an external motor and belt.

Then a new model hit the scene in the 1950s, which incorporated some of these features but then added an important new one. This was the 301 - a full size portable machine, with an aluminum body, Class 221 bobbin/rotary hook, and a flip up extension bed like the 221.  But what made it stand apart was the revolutionary new “slant needle” design.  And it had a direct drive, no belt. Yes, this is the first of a long line of slant shank machines, it all started with this one.

Singer 301

The slant shank is proprietary to Singer and was intended to give better visibility as you’re sewing.  It proved to be so popular that Singer then launched a line of “Slant-O-Matics” with the flagship machine being the 401. (There are some other variations in 400 SOM series, but I’ll focus on this one.)  Now, however, they went to a Class 66 horizontal drop-in bobbin, but it was still a full rotary hook because this was the TOL series of the day.

Singer 401 

But Singer couldn't leave well enough alone, and thus began the gradual decline towards what we know today as the "Touch & Sew."  It all began with the changes to the bobbin winder system. First, they launched a new generation of Slant-O-Matics, which were the 500 machines (known as the Rocketeers - 500/503.). They added some styling features which reflected the mid-century "space age" aesthetic, and then attempted to improve the design with a bobbin winder located on top of the machine and hidden under a hinged lid which also served as a cam cover.  Without going into detail, suffice it to say that this was NOT an improvement for a number of reasons.  The machine looks cool, but suffers from a case of "Function Follows Form" when it should be the other way around. 

Singer 503

Which brings us to the 600 series in this line.  Like the 301, which bridged the low shank straight stitchers and the slant shank zigzaggers*, the 600 was a pivotal model. It is both the LAST Slant-O-Matic and the FIRST Touch & Sew which makes it rather unique.

Singer 600e Touch & Sew on left/Singer 600 Slant-O-Matic on right 

Again, the main change was with the bobbin winder - Singer was DETERMINED to hide that bobbin winder!  And now they had an entirely new concept: the "wind in place" bobbin. To this day the bobbin winder gets mixed reviews because it works GREAT until it doesn't. (This machine also did chain stitching, a feature already available on some of the German 400 models.)

While the 600 was called a Slant-O-Matic, the 600e (which had one slight change in where the button was located for the bobbin winder) was rebranded as a Touch & Sew - and thus launched a new line for Singer in the early-mid 1960s.

And here is where this particular branch of the Singer family tree began to devolve. While the 600/e was mechanically identical to the 401 - a well built machine with all metal gears and direct drive - it wasn't long after this that those steel gears were replaced with nylon.  Cheaper, lighter, and theoretically "smoother," but not nearly as durable.  Once the 700 generation of these machines was introduced, the Touch & Sew that people love to hate was born.  These are the machines with the bad reputation and the ones which give a bad name to ALL of them. 

Singer 750 

This is what those gears look like today - even on the most well-maintained machines - and this is why most VSM enthusiasts shun the Touch & Sews. 

*An oddball machine was the Singer 404 which was a Slant-O-Matic straight stitcher (also the 604 which was the Touch & Sew straight stitcher.). Neither of these could match the ORIGINAL slant shank straight stitcher which was the 301. 

The Greatest Machine I Never Loved - Singer 201

"The Cadillac of Singers"

"The Dressmaker"

"The Finest Machine Singer Ever Made"

These are the accolades you will find assigned to the Singer 201. And let me be clear, this IS a very fine machine.  It is a classic, elegant machine which stitches smoothly and perfectly.  No argument there.

Singer 201-2, potted motor machine

But I just don't love it!  And here's why...

First of all, it is a Class 66 drop-in bobbin, and to me that is second best if you're comparing actual sewing performance.  The vertical bobbin is the default, if you will, and requires a little fiddling to insert it, but it is the best engineered design for sewing.  The drop-in bobbin was designed to be more USER friendly, not to improve the performance of the machine.

Although explaining the mechanics of the hook systems is above my pay grade, I can simplify by saying that with a vertical bobbin the thread unwinds in a straight line off the bobbin as you sew.  Picture a yo-yo and the string unwinding from it and that is how the thread comes off the vertically oriented bobbin.  Now lay the yo-yo on its side and pull the string upwards.  As with a horizontal bobbin, the string must make a 90 degree bend as unwinds.  This is a compromise for the sake of convenience not an improvement in operation.

In my personal experience, the vertical bobbin machines have more chops.  For example, 15-91 might not be as silky smooth (with its oscillating hook) but it could probably sew through tin cans!  

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The next thing I don't love about the 201 is that although it sews very smoothly - with its full rotary hook - it doesn't sew particularly fast.  My disclaimer here is that I've only owned three of these machines, so that is a small test sample, but every one of them sewed slower than any other machine I compared them to.  A couple of my machines sewed more than TWICE as fast as a 201!  While speed isn't everything, and you'll rarely need to sew at top speed, I still look at it like a car: although you might never actually drive 160 mph, you'd rather have a car that is capable of that speed than one that tops out at 80 mph.  (Amirite?)

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The next issue I have seems mundane, but all other things being equal it is a deal breaker for me.  There is an exposed light bulb on the front of the 201-2 where it is poised to brand my hand every time I reach under it to lift the presser foot.  (Same issue with the 221 - the Featherweight is a Little Dog with a Big Bite!)

OUCH!!!

So to conclude, this is an excellent machine, but it just doesn't make my heart sing.  It may be blasphemous to even say this among VSM lovers, but I find the 201 kind of "boring."  It makes a beautiful straight stitch, and it runs very smoothly, but I have other machines that do that and more. (Here's an example: it sews every bit as smoothly as a 201, but twice as fast AND has a ton of other features.)  I have a strict rule to keep my sewing machine herd under control which is that each machine must have a unique feature that no other machine has (it's portable, it chain stitches, it's a slant shank, it has a free arm, it takes cams, etc.)  Under this rule, the 201 just doesn't make the cut for me.  It straight stitches - that's it.

There's nothing wrong with a straight stitch machine, of course,  but I just don't happen to think the 201 is the BEST one ever made. 

To me, THIS is The Finest Domestic Straight Stitch Sewing Machine Ever Made

Internal motor/direct gear drive (no potted motor on this!)

Smooth, rotary hook

Vertical bobbin

Super fast speeds (up to 1600 spm)

Streamlined appearance with recessed spool pins and bobbin winder

Perfect stitching

Slant shank

Lightweight cast aluminum body/portable  (Sorry, 201, you're cast iron and NOT portable!)

The Singer 301.  I will argue that there is none finer.  If you disagree, tell me why!

A Guide to Some of the Most Popular Vintage Singer Sewing Machines - PART I, The Classic Blacks

This is my analysis of a handful of today's most sought after mid-century Singer models.  It is not a comprehensive list, there are many that aren't included here.  I am covering only the ones I have actually owned and sewn on myself (the exception being the 222, which I have never actually even seen!) therefore, the Pros and Cons are my personal opinion.  Note: some machines have more versions than what I show here.


First I thought it might be helpful to explain some of the fundamental differences among these sewing machines. They break down as follows:

• Two different shank types: low and slant
• Three different bobbin types: Class 15, Class 66, Class 221
• Three different hook configurations - which is a combination of hook type and orientation

Now we'll start with what I call the "Classic Blacks."  Here are some of the most popular models.

Singer 15-91

Singer 201-2

Singer 319w (also comes in tan)

(Note: variations of the Swing Needle include 206, 306, and 320.)

Singer 221

This brings us to the last of the Classic Blacks, and a completely unique machine.  To me, the 301 is the pinnacle of Singer machines. It ushered in a new era of completely re-engineered slant shank machines  and at the same time the black model was the very last of the beautiful black machines with gold decals. 

But around this time, Singer wanted to modernize the look- the black machines were old school, reminiscent of the Model T which Henry Ford offered in "whatever color the customer wants as long as it is black." Therefore the 301 had the black & gold version (for those who still liked the traditional style) and two more color schemes in beige tones to update the look. To this day it remains unique because it was the only machine that could be both a cabinet AND a portable model.  The 301 is truly one of a kind; it is the bridge between the models above (and many, many more of that era) and the ones that followed.  No machine ever made, however, could surpass it.  Dare I say it is perfect?

Singer 301

The beige and the LBOW (light beige/oyster white) 301s segued into the Slant-O-Matic color scheme...

NEXT..... Part II, the Slant-O-Matics  (Singer 400/500 Series)

The Singer 301 Family is Complete - LBOW

A few years ago I picked up a Singer 301-1 black short bed.  It quickly became my favorite machine, and now lives in a beautiful #42 cabinet.  That's all I could ever want. Except...

I then came across a 301-2 beige long bed in a case for a good price.  That would round out my collection (one of each color, one of each style.)  Except...

There was one more color I didn't have, which is the Light Beige Oyster White (LBOW.)  I was okay if I never got one, but when I saw one being offered at an Estate Sale, I couldn't resist the siren song.

I wanted to be the first one in line, so I got there an hour early and waited in the pouring rain.  Good thing I did because someone right behind me was after it too.  It was only $40 because it didn't work.

However, I disagree.  It absolutely does work!

Here it is stitching at very slow to very high speeds.

And it makes a perfect stitch

But it wasn't working - that is the wheel wouldn't turn - when I bought it, and all the better to my advantage.  However, I knew this:  as long as the bobbin case was in there (and it was) it was worth $40 because the bobbin case alone is worth more than that.  I was also pretty sure I could get it running anyway.  I've done it before, after all.  But if I couldn't get it working, then I would part it out and come out ahead, so win/win.

So here, just as I suspected, was the problem.  First of all, YUCK.  

Gobs of lint that hadn't been cleaned out in years.

But even worse, there was a thread wrapped around the hook

It took a while, but I finally got it free.  It was wrapped up in there pretty tight.

So maybe a messy hour of my time, and I got a machine that had been written off as not working right back into operation.  It was also bone dry and needed some oiling and lubing.  It still sounds a little hard, but it runs fast and the stitch is perfect like any 301.  (Hopefully after running and oiling it a little more, it will settle down.)

             I'll be selling one of them soon, but for now it's kind of cool to have the whole set.

The Coveted 301 Longbed with Carrying Case

And it didn't cost me a cent!

Singer 301a long bed

So, here's how I got it:  I bought the 403 shown in this post for $50, I sold it for $100, then I bought this 301 for $50.  In fact, if you look at the blog photo of all my machines, that entire collection (including all the accessories) hasn't set me back one cent.  For every machine or gadget I own, I've sold at least four others which replenishes my hobby fund.

If you're so inclined, you can do this with almost anything you collect.  It simply takes time and patience, and you have to enjoy the process of hunting for the next great find, dragging it home, fixing it up, and selling it.  I do enjoy that since there is always another model I want to acquire, even if it is only passing through.

Of course I already have the 301 black short bed in a cabinet

Singer 301 short bed

These are two variations of the exact same machine.  The "bed" is the extension leaf that folds up and down so you can access the vertical bobbin case under the machine (the Featherweight has this, too.)  The long bed, like this beige one, won't fit into a standard cabinet and usually comes with the carrying case.  The short bed, like this black one, fits into certain Singer cabinets with a cradle adaptor.  This means it can be easily removed from the cabinet - you don't have to unscrew anything - and used as a portable. (This post shows how the cradle adaptor fits into the cabinet.)

Keep in mind that you can also get the short bed in beige or the long bed in black.  The black is usually considered more "collectible" mainly because it is the last of the beautiful black Singers with the glossy gold decals.  The beige 301 ushered in the color scheme that would be seen in the 400 and 500 Slant-o-Matics.  Apparently this was supposed to be a more "modern" style, but they just didn't have the same glamour as the classic black and gold models.


Not that Singer didn't try to cash in on vintage appeal with their anniversary edition 160 a couple of years ago (the less said about this cheap, plastic imitation, the better.)

        So, back to the 301.  

I've raved about them before, and I have to say that this is the hands down best machine of ALL the many vintage Singers I've owned.  The other Slant-o-Matics are good, don't get me wrong, but the 301 is not only the original Slant-o-Matic, it is the only one with the vertical bobbin.  And this machine runs like greased lightning - 1500+ stitches per minute.  I'm pretty sure that beats any but the most expensive home machine you can buy today, and you can cop one of these for $100 or less.

The carrying case is also exceptionally cool and this one is in very nice condition.

And it came with SIX original Class 221 bobbins.

Hey, those original bobbins are worth $2-$3 apiece, maybe more.  They are hard to find, and I never use reproduction bobbins in my vintage Singers.

I don't know how long this machine will be around, but since I broke even, I'm not in any hurry to sell it.  I think I'll just enjoy it for awhile before I decide.

Singer Cabinet for 301 - I Found One!

So having been lucky enough to find this black 301 shortbed at a yard sale for $10 - with another $20 to replace foot controller - I needed only to install it in a Singer cabinet to have the perfect sewing experience. 

Cradle Adapter for installing 301 shortbed

The 301 shortbed is unique in that it can be installed in a cabinet like any other full sized vintage Singer but then this machine just pops out of its cabinet and goes along to wherever you need to take it, carried by the clever handle right on top the machine (a stand alone feature, not seen on any other vintage Singer, not even the Featherweight.)  The thing that makes this possible is the "cradle adapter" into which the machine fits in place in the cabinet.  The lever on the left releases the machine when you want to remove it.  VERY, VERY COOL!

But all Singer cabinets are not exactly alike. There is one crucial element that determines which type of machine can be installed in the cabinet.  Most of the mid-century cabinets are configured to hold machines like the 15-91, 201, 66, etc.  When the machine is in place, it rests on a lip protruding on a hinged panel that folds down.  Like this:

Installing the 301 requires brackets to hold the cradle adapter on this panel and it must be flush in order for the machine to fit.  Like this:

I was frustrated to realize that my 301 could not fit into either of the two cabinets I already have, but I later picked one up at another estate sale - once I knew what to look for.  

UPDATE:  I later upgraded to the beautiful Singer #42 cabinet which I like even better.  (This style cabinet comes in BOTH configurations as shown above, so you have to look closely to see which machines it will take.)

A Little Run Around the Race Track with My Classic Singers

Just for fun, thought I'd do a little comparison among my machines just to see who is the fastest.  Does it matter?  I dunno...but it was fun to do the test, and there were some surprising results.

And here are the Contestants!

 Singer 201-2

Classic Singer favorite and usually regarded as one of their finest machines.  The stitches are sheer perfection and this machine runs smoothly and quietly.  It has the horizontal rotary hook configuration with a drop-in bobbin (Class 66).   An occasional searing of the flesh is SOP for the lamp located on the front of the machine. I rarely bring her out to play anymore because truthfully I enjoy sewing on my other machines more than this one.

Singer 15-91

The Runner-Up in the full size, mid-century, straight stitch Singer category.  I'm not sure why this machine gets second billing because to be honest, she is faster and more powerful than the 201. With a vertical, oscillating hook this machine isn't quite as smooth and quiet but it stitches much faster and with more assurance (it will plow through anything without complaint - up over thick seams and down the other side with no hesitation). The upper tension is located on the faceplate making threading somewhat awkward. Inserting the vertical bobbin (Class 15) is no big deal once you've done it several hundred times.  :)

Singer 221 Featherweight

There just isn't anything to say about a Singer Featherweight that millions of people don't already know.  The Perfect Portable and all that.  Cute factor off the charts.  This 1956 model is a beautiful, shiny specimen.  There is some slight wear to the front edge decals which makes it "okay" to actually use this machine.  Her case, manual and accessory box are all in excellent condition and she has all the toys and goodies.  A little black box full of fun!  She stays.

Singer 221 Centennial Edition

This one is all that and a bag of chips!  Which is to say that not only is she a beautiful machine - nearly pristine in every way - she has the blue 1951 Centennial badge for Singer's 100th Year.   She is too beautiful to actually use and strangely enough she doesn't sew nearly as fast as my other Featherweight and I have never been able to figure out why.  (That is the subject of a previous entry.)  This one is for Show, not for Sew.

Singer 503 "Rocketeer"

This machine will never win any prizes for straight stitching among its peers (although I suspect it can sew circles around many machines made today.)  It's not my fastest, most powerful, or best straight stitching machine,  but it is one of the coolest sewing machines I've ever seen.  

Singer 301

This one just joined the family last week and is now my favorite, bestest, most wonderful fantastic machine EVER!!  Why didn't anyone ever let me in on this secret?  I have never particularly coveted a 301, I figured it was just another variation on the theme and I didn't perceive that it had any outstanding feature other than being a bigger edition of the Featherweight.  WRONG!  Don't let the folding bed and carrying case fool you into thinking that this is just an overgrown cousin of the darling, dainty Featherweight (like I did.)   Let your Featherweight do her thing - charming machine that she is - and show her off at your quilting classes.  But for real sewing oomph, snatch up one of these if you are ever lucky enough to find one.  

Let me try to explain it this way:

Take the smooth sewing action of the 201 with it's rotary hook, the speed and power of the 15-91 with it's vertical bobbin, the portability of the 221, and the slant shank of the 503. Wrap them all up into one and you now have this ultimate machine.  It really does have the best of ALL features from my other machines.  And it is the hands down winner for speed.  None of the others even come close...

PUTTING THEM TO THE TEST

A while back I did a speed test of all my machines then I compared the 301 and the results were stunning. In 15 seconds (at 12 sts/inch), the machines stitched the following number of inches:

Singer 201 - 11 inches

Singer 221 (1951 model)  - 13 inches

Singer 503 - 14 inches

Singer 221 (1956 model) - 18 inches

Singer 15-91 - 19 inches

Singer 404 - 24 inches

Singer 301 - 31 inches !!!!   That is nearly THREE TIMES faster than the 201!

Now I will concede that there is undoubtedly some variation among individual machines - obviously between my two 221's there is quite a difference.  But for the 301 to reach speeds DOUBLE the average of all the other machines, that leaves it the indisputable champion.