Frolic

Thursday, April 6, 2017

How to Make a Cover for your Featherweight Case



Finally, here is my pattern for making a cover for your Featherweight case.  (I showed another one I made HERE.)  This does not enclose the case at the bottom, but just covers it to protect it from dust, scratches, and scuffs.
This fits the newer style case from about the 1950s.  The older ones, with the tray insert, have slightly different dimensions, so substitute your own measurements if necessary


These are the basic materials - a yard each of a main and contrast/lining fabric plus fusible fleece.  I don't show the piping here, but add that in as well as any other trims (rick rack, appliqué, or whatever) you want.








From the lining/contrast fabric:

Front/Back:  cut 2 @ 15-3/4" x 13-1/8"

Sides: cut 2 @ 9-1/4" x 13-1/8"

Top:  cut 1 @ 15-3/4" x 9-1/4"

















From the main fabric and the fusible fleece:

Front/Back:  cut 2 @ 15-3/4" x 11-5/8"

Sides: cut 2 @ 9-1/4" x 11-5/8"

Top:  cut 1 @ 15-3/4" x 9-1/4"



Trim away 1/2" seam allowance before fusing the fleece in order to reduce bulk in the seams.  (NOTE: There is no seam allowance at the bottom of the Front, Back, and Sides.)





Now cut out a 6-1/2" x 1" rectangle from the center of each Top piece as shown:




On each piece, mark the corners with small dots at the seam allowance as shown.  NOTE: Seam allowance is 1/2"



Just use a pencil - it won't show 



To Sew

With Main fabric, sew Front and Back to Sides, stopping exactly on dots, and back stitch to reinforce. Press seams open.


Using the top cut from Contrast fabric, pin to the Sides, matching dots.  Begin and end seam exactly on the dots, and backstitch to reinforce.  These should meet at a perfect right angle, as shown below.





















After Top is sewn at both Sides, pin it along Front/Back edges, folding back the seam allowance from the previous seams and matching dots.
Previous seam allowance, on Contrast fabric, is folded back to avoid sewing over it


Begin and end these seams exactly on the dots, reinforcing with backstitching as before.



Here is how your corners will look when finished



You can slip this on over the case to help you shape it and lightly press the seams open (Careful, don't scorch your case!)  Trim corners, if you want, to make a neater finish.





Sew Lining in the same way with remaining pieces, then press under 1/4" on bottom edge.


Now, put the Main cover back on the case right side up and the Lining over it right side down (right sides together, in other words).  Match the openings and pin as shown





Sew around this opening about 1/4" from opening edge.  I used the wide toe of my presser foot as the guide.  (You have to turn it inside out to get in there to sew)  Reinforce at the corners as you turn.




Slash right up to the stitching at the corners and trim




Pull the lining through the opening, then you can put this back on the case to press it. (Again, not too hot, you don't want to damage the leather of your case!)  After pressing, topstitch around opening.

                                  





With cover on the case pull Lining down tautly all around.  It will extend 1-1/4" beyond the bottom (with 1/4" previously pressed under.)  Turn this back up over the cover and pin into place all around, matching corners first.


Insert piping and sew the reverse hem with a zipper foot.


That's it!  If you make this, I'd love for you to send me a photo.

Wednesday, April 5, 2017

Book Review - "Sew Retro" by Judi Ketteler

REVIEW:  Sew Retro: 25 Vintage-Inspired Projects for the Modern Girl & a Stylish History of the Sewing Revolution by Judi Ketteler.  Minneapolis, MN: Voyageur, 2010  $24.99

Today, I'm going to go in a little different direction than usual and do a book review.  Anyone who has read a few posts on this blog knows that I am a history nut who loves to sew - thus my obsession with "vintage" sewing machines, patterns, and fabrics.

Imagine my delight when I stumbled across a book that combines these all into one beautiful, high quality volume.  Sew Retro, by Judi Ketteler, traces the history of domestic sewing in the United States since the nineteenth century and the advent of the home sewing machine.  For the fun factor, it includes easy, vintage-style patterns to make with today's retro prints or your own stash of vintage fabric.

I snagged this photo from Judi's blog (which is also where you can go to buy this book if you're interested) because it is a nicer picture than one I'd take myself.  The book is larger than it seems in the picture, ring-bound with glossy pages and beautiful photos and illustrations.


This is an example of some of the charming illustrations taken from vintage periodicals

While Sew Retro has plenty of eye candy - or "sewing porn" - with the many pictures of vintage sewing machines and  fabric swatches, it is also a little slice of women's history.  It explores the ways home sewing evolved as a response to women's changing roles in society and vice versa.  Judi begins the narrative in the 1800s with the "Cult of True Womanhood" and explains how femininity was defined in the ladylike pursuit of needlework. She continues throughout the twentieth century as women sewed for thrift and economy (during the Depression and World War II), and then later for relaxation and creativity as they became "liberated" and no longer had to sew to keep their family in clothing. We see how the industry kept pace with these changes, and offered women a chance to express themselves through fashion in the 1950s, '60s, and '70s.

Each chapter in the historical progression is accompanied by a pattern that represents the time period. This is truly an interactive history book in the sense that you can make these simple items that give you a feel for the women who would have made something similar years ago.


Here is one of the patterns from the Victorian Era when women kept their treasured sewing tools in dainty needle cases they made themselves.








And if all this wasn't enough, Judi introduces us to some of today's designers who produce retro fabrics and patterns, and/or upcycle second-hand textiles in interesting ways.

There is no end to the delights for a vintage sewing lover - an added value is the inclusion of a full sized pattern sheet for some of the projects in the book.








Judi has done a great job of giving us a history of domestic sewing and American womanhood with a fresh twist.  If you like to collect vintage fabric like I do - or just appreciate vintage-inspired modern prints - then you'll certainly enjoy making some of the cute patterns in this book that are fun, updated versions of clothing and accessories that American women made in the past.






Tuesday, February 14, 2017

Volunteer Sewing, or Stitching Meets History

I am in a long, dry spell of unemployment.  Having decided late in life to start a new career path, I went back to school to get a degree in History (yes, I know, not exactly a blazing path to success) and now find myself virtually unemployable.  The diploma looks nice hanging on the wall, but I have found out the hard way that youth pretty much trumps experience in the job market.  All my 20-something classmates have found jobs while I languish in the ranks of the unemployed.

In the meantime, I am doing volunteer work in my field. I sit on a local Historic Preservation Commission and I work part-time at a history museum. (This is exactly what I wanted to do when I went for the degree, only I hoped to be PAID for it!)

One of my jobs at the museum is deciphering 19th century letters like this and transcribing them:
(If this doesn't look like fun, then I can't explain it.  Either you love this kind of thing or you don't.)  ;)


When they found out I could sew, I was quickly given a project.  This, of course, is a costume, not an authentic reproduction dress.  (It has a zipper up the back and everything.)  But this was the pattern they asked me to make.


Keeping in mind that I am not the best seamstress - or the best photographer - on the block, this is the dress on the girl I made it for - not yet hemmed.  She wasn't available for fittings, so the waist turned out a tad too big, even though the size matched her measurements.  She said not to worry, since she will be wearing an apron with it (which I will undoubtedly make as well!)


I thought the dress looked awfully plain (they didn't want any of the trims included with the pattern) so I picked up my crochet hook and made a collar.  It looks great with the dress, I think, and the museum staff was duly impressed.

Then they asked me to make some vintage-style aprons.  JoAnn actually has a line of print fabrics reminiscent of the 1930s and 1940s.




I loved this print, especially!


Anyway, this sort of thing keeps me busy until I can find paying gigs... 

Thursday, February 2, 2017

Knitting Socks for the Red Cross

This is a slight diversion from vintage Singers, but it relates to history, which is what I study.  I am preparing for a demonstration in an upcoming exhibit related to the home front efforts in WWII.  The exhibit will be primarily about Victory Gardens and canning foods, but I volunteered to demonstrate how women knit for the GIs during the war.

Several years ago I bought a really neat commemorative Knit Kit from the Red Cross which had a replica of the man's sock pattern they issued to knitters along with yarn for the project.
















I made a sample pair for the demonstration:




The history included in the kit explains the Red Cross "Knit Your Bit" campaign.  


Socks could obviously be knit faster and more efficiently by machines in factories but manufacturing was allocated to the war effort as much as possible. Anything that could be produced by alternate means freed up factories for war production.  (And this, of course, is why sewing machines weren't being manufactured during the war either.)

But there was another benefit to the home knitting initiative.  Every American wanted to be involved in working for Victory.  Kids collected tin for scrap metal drives, women worked in plants producing war materiel, and older people tended Victory Gardens.  Knitting was something anyone could do - young and old alike - so the Red Cross urged Americans to "Knit Your Bit" and supplied the yarn and specifications for the garments that were needed.  I imagine that to women on the home front, worried about their men on the front lines, it could be calming and therapeutic to knit with other women and know they were providing warm, comforting items to the troops.  And for the men who received these items, I imagine that just knowing they were hand-knit by the women back home gave them an extra measure of encouragement.  It was a human connection that reminded them of what they were fighting for.

So in the spirit of the Knit Your Bit campaign from WWII,  I am reflecting on those who fought and sacrificed for our freedom while I knit these socks.  Even though a GI won't wear them, I still think about the young men who fought and died overseas while their mothers, wives, and sweethearts did their part back home.  I have four sons of my own, so I can imagine how knitting socks like this would have been an outlet for the constant stress of knowing my boys were in danger.  I hope that during the demonstration I will be able to convey some of these sentiments while I knit the socks.

Saturday, January 21, 2017

How to Blind Hem on a Straight Stitch Machine (Just for Kicks)

I will acknowledge is that it is unlikely that anyone (myself included) will ever actually do this.  I usually either blind stitch by hand or on my ZZ machine.  But part of the fun of using vintage straight-stitch Singers is exploring the ingenious methods they had for doing tasks that require a zigzag.

There is an attachment made specifically for blind hemming.  I used to have one of these and sold it on eBay, figuring I'd never use it.  It is only available for low shank (as far as I know) so wouldn't work on my slant shanks anyway.
Singer Blind Stitch Attachment for low shank straight stitch machines.


But just supposing I want to blind hem on one of my straight stitch Slant-O-Matics.  Then I'd reach for this:


This is a gadget Singer made to do zigzag and other decorative stitches on straight stitch machines.  Mostly those would have been low shank machines like the 15-91, 201, or 221.  The 301 and 404 are (as far as I'm aware) the only two straight stitch Slant-O-Matics, and there is a slant shank version of the Automatic Zigzagger for these machines which is harder to find, but not impossible.

This thing is HEAVY, it weighs almost a pound with the cam inserted!  This is the basic zigzag cam.


So getting ready to make my hem, the first thing I might do is finish the raw edge with a zigzag stitch.  This was done on that unwieldy gizmo shown above, and it did an acceptable job.


Now I'm ready to do the blind hem, and this is the cam that does it




Set it up to blind hem in the usual way.  I have adjusted the bight so that the zz will fall right on that left guideline on the foot.  I just keep the folded edge on that line while I'm stitching





Unlike a typical blind hem stitch that does several straight stitches followed by a left zigzag stitch, this one makes a half-circle between each zigzag.




And this is how it looks on the right side.
(same fabric, different lighting)


Yes, I have just made a blind hem on an old straight stitching sewing machine!  There is something kind of satisfying in knowing it can be done this way, even if you would never actually do it, right?



Tuesday, January 17, 2017

That Little Green Box


I've always assumed that everyone was familiar with all the common feet that came in the little green box with old Singer machines.  I've used them all my life and never gave it a second thought.  But recently I've noticed people asking about these attachments as if they aren't familiar with them. And I've also noticed that some of the modern versions - like the ruffler foot - are rather pricey.  But if you have a low shank sewing machine, you can use any of these vintage attachments.  They are dirt cheap - you can usually get an entire box of assorted attachments like this on eBay for about $20.  If you haunt Estate Sales, like I do, you can get them for almost nothing.  


(DISCLAIMER:  I don't make great videos, these are from my iPhone. And I just did samples on various scraps of fabrics here, not real projects.  Don't judge!)


First up is the binder attachment.  Most of these have multiple slots for different widths of bias tape.

I used 1/2" single fold bias tape.  I inserted it into the second largest slot which is easier to do BEFORE attaching it to the machine.

Slide your fabric in between the folded tape and sew.  Easy as that.



Even better, you can use unfolded bias strips of 15/16" that you make yourself.  You insert this into the largest slot, and it will fold and apply the strip all in one step:



How about that?





Next is the ruffler.  In spite of being the most intimidating looking of all the feet in your box, this one is actually one of the easiest to use.  And its kind of fun too. 
Those numbered notches indicate how many stitches will be made between each pleat. (The * setting is for doing straight stitch without removing the foot.)  You can adjust stitch length along with these settings to get the fullness you want.     



Here I have it set on 6, which means a pleat every six stitches.


Perfect pleats in seconds, and so easy to do.



One of the trickier feet to master is the rolled hem foot.  But once you get the hang of it, it makes a beautiful, perfect hem.  Just keep in mind that the softer and lighter the fabric, the trickier it can be. For those fabrics, try lightly starching the edge to be hemmed to give it enough body to behave in the hemmer.
The trick is to finger press the hem a couple of inches before you start.  Take a couple of stitches, then lift the presser foot and wiggle your hem into the scroll, then lower it and stitch away.  



Once you get going, just make sure to feed the fabric evenly into the scroll so it doesn't turn under too much or too little.



  On a medium-weight woven fabric like this, the results are great. (And honestly, isn't the stitching just beautiful on the 404?)




Then there's the edgestitcher.  The simplest thing is does is stitch right on the edge of the fabric.  






If you're into heirloom sewing, you can use it to join two pieces of lace right on the very edge:



Right on the very edge -  with matching thread the join would be invisble




And you can use it to make French seams;


For a 5/8" seam allowance, sew the wrong sides together with a 3/8" seam, then trim to 1/8"



Turn wrong side out, with seam inside, and press 




 Tuck into the edgestitcher slot for 1/4" and sew the seam from the wrong side, enclosing the raw edges on the right side



There is your French seam from the right side and the wrong side. 











                 And of course the zipper foot is a common, every day foot and needs no explanation

There are a few more such as the adjustable hemmer, which I've never used (I just don't get it, honestly), and the shirring/gathering foot.  There is also the tucker, and a few other speciality feet which I will cover in another post.