Frolic

Wednesday, October 28, 2020

Let's Talk Singer Touch & Sew 603e

Singer Touch & Sew 603


As I've pointed out before, in discussing the Singer 600e, all Touch & Sew machines are NOT created equal. They are roughly divided into early 600s, which have metal gears and are comparable to the Slant-O-Matics, and the 700s which have nylon gears and are of much lower quality.*




But here is where I want to differentiate the 600/603/604.**  Just like the 400 and 500 Slant-O-Matics, they are as follows:

600/401/500:  Fully Automatic.  These machines have built-in cam stacks to make a full range of stitch patterns without insertable cams.  But they also accept the black top hat cams to make additional stitches.  

603/403/503:  Semi Automatic.  These machines can only make a zigzag stitches with a cam - and the #0 cam MUST be in the machine when you're not using another cam stitch.  You can get all the same stitches as the fully automatic machines, you just have to use cams for them.

604/404:  Straight stitch machines.

Among those who love Slant-O-Matics are those who actually prefer the 403/503, and the same reasons would apply to the 603.
Singer 403 Slant-O-Matic - "semi-automatic" machine


Just as the 600 can be compared to a 401,  the 403 and 603 are similar, and here are the advantages of the semi-automatic machines:

1.  Because these machines don't have built-in cam stacks, they have less complicated stitch mechanisms.  Less complicated = Less that can go wrong/get seized up/cause aggravations.  Theoretically, you might also get smoother stitching.

2.  This is kind of complicated to explain, so you'll just have to take my word for it, but with the fully automatics you can't get the full range of stitch widths on all the built-in stitches.  Combination stitch patterns are limited to needle position 3 which is ALSO stitch width 3, so that is the widest you can get on these stitches.

On the other hand, with the semi-automatic machines, since you are using cams for all the stitches, you can use ANY WIDTH YOU WANT!  On a 401, for example, you sometimes find yourself inserting a cam for a stitch that is already built in because you want to make it with a wider stitch width.  This kind of defeats the purpose of having it built-in to begin with.

The disadvantages to the semi-automatic, of course, is that you must have all the cams to get all the stitches.


So, if you had to choose between a 600 or 603 Touch & Sew, just know they are both very fine machines, and you can't go wrong either way.  My personal preference is for the 603, since I do have all the cams, and I am happy not to have the extra convoluted stitch pattern levers to deal with.  I think the machine looks nicer without it.  
Pattern selection levers on 600e.  I'd rather just use the cams.



* Somewhere in the 620s is where this change took place, and with these machines the best thing is to look and see for yourself whether it has metal gears.  

** The 600 "e" versions are identical except for the placement of the bobbin winder button.






Thursday, October 15, 2020

Buttonholes on Vintage Kenmore

Previously I showed several different methods of machine made buttonholes HERE.   These were all done on Singer machines with various attachments or using the 3-needle positions to make them freehand.

Buttonholes made on Kenmore 158 with "lollipop" guide

The vintage Kenmore 158s I've used don't have three-needle positions and they don't have a built-in buttonhole stitch, either.  Early Kenmores did use a buttonholer attachment like the Greist model that Singer used, but the later 158s had an entirely different system.


This one consists of a flat plastic guide with the templates on the bottom side.  This plastic guide fits into place over a little protruding pinion gear which follows the template and moves the guide, which moves your fabric with it, forming the buttonhole with the machine's own satin stitch.  

There are variations of this system, depending on the machine - some have the pinion gear built in, some have an extension that hooks on the front of the machine, and some, like the one shown here, have an alternative bobbin cover plate that has the pinion gear.

It's pretty simple to use, and makes acceptable buttonholes.  That's about it!

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UPDATE:  Here is another Kenmore buttonhole option, and I have this on my "Mini Kennie" 158.1050 portable.  This amazing little machine comes with a built-in 3-step buttonhole stitch, and there is absolutely nothing to attach to the machine, you just pop a little rubber guide under the presser foot and go.



It doesn't make those smooth rounded buttonholes like the Singer attachments, but the trade-off is that it is SUPER quick and easy.

And it just because I "can," I made an entire garment on the little Kennie, including the buttonholes.