Let's Talk Singer Touch & Sew 603e

Singer Touch & Sew 603

As I've pointed out before, in discussing the Singer 600e, all Touch & Sew machines are NOT created equal. They are roughly divided into early 600s, which have metal gears and are comparable to the Slant-O-Matics, and the 700s which have nylon gears and are of much lower quality.*

This machine looks similar to the one above, but pass on this one unless you are willing to put in the time and effort to replace the gears.  It may be worth it, but I'll leave that up to you! 

But here is where I want to differentiate the 600/603/604.**  Just like the 400 and 500 Slant-O-Matics, they are as follows:

600/401/500:  Fully Automatic.  These machines have built-in cam stacks to make a full range of stitch patterns without insertable cams.  But they also accept the black top hat cams to make additional stitches.  

603/403/503:  Semi Automatic.  These machines can only make a zigzag stitches with a cam - and the #0 cam MUST be in the machine when you're not using another cam stitch.  You can get all the same stitches as the fully automatic machines, you just have to use cams for them.

604/404:  Straight stitch machines.

Among those who love Slant-O-Matics are those who actually prefer the 403/503, and the same reasons would apply to the 603.

Singer 403 Slant-O-Matic - "semi-automatic" machine

Just as the 600 can be compared to a 401,  the 403 and 603 are similar, and here are the advantages of the semi-automatic machines:

1.  Because these machines don't have built-in cam stacks, they have less complicated stitch mechanisms.  Less complicated = Less that can go wrong/get seized up/cause aggravations.  Theoretically, you might also get smoother stitching.

2.  This is kind of complicated to explain, so you'll just have to take my word for it, but with the fully automatics you can't get the full range of stitch widths on all the built-in stitches.  Combination stitch patterns are limited to needle position 3 which is ALSO stitch width 3, so that is the widest you can get on these stitches.

On the other hand, with the semi-automatic machines, since you are using cams for all the stitches, you can use ANY WIDTH YOU WANT!  On a 401, for example, you sometimes find yourself inserting a cam for a stitch that is already built in because you want to make it with a wider stitch width.  This kind of defeats the purpose of having it built-in to begin with.

The disadvantages to the semi-automatic, of course, is that you must have all the cams to get all the stitches.

So, if you had to choose between a 600 or 603 Touch & Sew, just know they are both very fine machines, and you can't go wrong either way.  My personal preference is for the 603, since I do have all the cams, and I am happy not to have the extra convoluted stitch pattern levers to deal with.  I think the machine looks nicer without it.  

Pattern selection levers on 600e.  I'd rather just use the cams.

* Somewhere in the 620s is where this change took place, and with these machines the best thing is to look and see for yourself whether it has metal gears.  

** The 600 "e" versions are identical except for the placement of the bobbin winder button.

Buttonholes on Vintage Kenmore

Previously I showed several different methods of machine made buttonholes HERE.   These were all done on Singer machines with various attachments or using the 3-needle positions to make them freehand.

Buttonholes made on Kenmore 158 with "lollipop" guide

The vintage Kenmore 158s I've used don't have three-needle positions and they don't have a built-in buttonhole stitch, either.  Early Kenmores did use a buttonholer attachment like the Greist model that Singer used, but the later 158s had an entirely different system.

This one consists of a flat plastic guide with the templates on the bottom side.  This plastic guide fits into place over a little protruding pinion gear which follows the template and moves the guide, which moves your fabric with it, forming the buttonhole with the machine's own satin stitch.  

There are variations of this system, depending on the machine - some have the pinion gear built in, some have an extension that hooks on the front of the machine, and some, like the one shown here, have an alternative bobbin cover plate that has the pinion gear.

It's pretty simple to use, and makes acceptable buttonholes.  That's about it!

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UPDATE:  Here is another Kenmore buttonhole option, and I have this on my "Mini Kennie" 158.1050 portable.  This amazing little machine comes with a built-in 3-step buttonhole stitch, and there is absolutely nothing to attach to the machine, you just pop a little rubber guide under the presser foot and go.

It doesn't make those smooth rounded buttonholes like the Singer attachments, but the trade-off is that it is SUPER quick and easy.

And it just because I "can," I made an entire garment on the little Kennie, including the buttonholes.

Estate Sale Find - Singer #42 Bench Full of Goodies!

I still love Estate Sales!

My all time favorite Singer cabinet has always been the #42, with it's cool Art Deco styling and its beautiful finish and sturdy build.  It is a nice piece of furniture in its own right.  I found one several years ago, and it is a beauty, but I never had the matching stool and always hoped to find one.

I'm good at biding my time, because eventually one will show up.  It took five years but I found it! 

Singer #42 cabinet and stool

It was only $15 and as a bonus, it was packed with goodies!  The coolest thing was the packet for the Singer Sewing course which was offered for free when you bought a Singer machine in the 1940s-50s.

Singer Sewing Course - Six Lessons

Lesson One:  Seams in different fabrics, matching plaids, sewing curves.  Paper template included to practice sewing straight lines and circles

Lesson Two:  Sewing darts and gathers

Lesson Three:  Sewing trims and pipings using the edgestitch foot.  Our seamstress didn't do so well here.

This is Lesson Three in the Sewing Skills booklet

Lesson Four:  Doing free-motion embroidery following stamped design.  Our seamstress did such a bad job at this that I picked most of it out!

Lessons Five & Six:  Our seamstress never completed these lessons but according to the booklet, Lesson Five was installing zippers and Lesson Six was doing hem finishes.

I know I'm kind of weird, but I really enjoyed going through these lessons and imagining our seamstress taking time from her household chores back in 1955 to sit down at her Singer 99K and practice these skills. 

Kenmore 158.17800 - super high shank machine

I'm becoming intrigued with Kenmores of this era (the 158 models) simply because they are rather mysterious.  There just isn't a whole lot of information about them as compared to Singer models and I have yet to find a list of all the models AND all their features.  There is a wide variety among the models even though they are all in the 158 line.  

Kenmore 158.17800

This is a free arm with a super high shank, left homing needle, and a drop in bobbin

It has a number of built-in stitches and takes C-cams as well

It is easy to lock the feet onto the super high shank, you don't have to screw them on.  It also has the extra high presser foot lift like most Kenmores of this era.

Only problem is that for some reason these feet are hard to find.  You'd think for every one of these machines made there'd be a corresponding set of feet out there somewhere.  But that doesn't seem to be the case, for whatever reason.  The few original feet you can find - and even the reproductions - are pricey.  Keep that in mind if you're considering one of these machines.

Super High Shank adaptor for low shank feet

To a certain extent, you can make do with low shank feet by purchasing this adaptor for about $15.  It doesn't work with every low shank foot, but it will give you some more options.  This is a low shank zigzag foot attached to the adaptor.

Then, there is the left-homing needle position on this machine which doesn't mean a whole lot for practical purposes EXCEPT that you have to have a special left position straight stitch foot.  Happily, one was included with this machine.

Left homing straight stitch foot - a must with this machine

Besides being a free-arm, this model comes with a built-in buttonholer.  Parts that originally came with the machine would be fitted on that gear behind the throat plate, but I don't have those parts. YET...

Built-in buttonhole feature - more parts needed!

Horizontal rotary hook/drop in Class 15 bobbin.  

It also has a convenient quick release throat plate (ask the dummy who tried to unscrew it before I figured that it pops right out!)

And it sews nicely, with a 7mm stitch width. Nice, balanced tensions, no complaints.  

Green is the bobbin side - nice tensions

Instead of showing how fast this machine sews (not that fast, maybe 880 spm) I thought I'd show how well it sews through very thick seams without stalling or skipping.  Notice the presser bar lift, so you can get the 1/2" stack of fabric under the foot.  This is SIXTEEN layers of stretch corduroy.

This machine is loaded with features, and would meet almost any sewing need from free-arm to buttonholes to stretch stitches galore.   The only drawback is the unusual shank style which might limit the feet and accessories you are able to find for it.

Kenmore 158.1730 (No, It's Not a Singer This Time!)

Yes, this is a blog about vintage Singers, and yes, I LOVE them.  But this post is about a KENMORE sewing machine.

Let's face it, most Kenmores just don't have the same appeal as the classic Singers with the stylish features and catchy names like Featherweight!  Rocketeer!  Slant-O-Matic!  Golden Touch & Sew!

The well-built 158 Kenmores from the late-1950s- late-1970s numbered at more than ONE HUNDRED different models.  Dozens of different 158s appear identical unless you look closely - then you see some are super high shank, some are low shank.  Some are flat beds, some are free arms.  Some take cams, some don't.  Then there are different sets of cams from A-G which fit various models of the 158 machines.  It can make your head spin trying to sort it all out.

Well, not too long ago, I happened to acquire these C cams and low-shank Kenmore feet when I bought a lot of various sewing machine accessories. 

Well when this "bait" ended up in my sewing room, I knew it was only a matter of time until...

I found a machine to go with them!

Kenmore 158.1730

It didn't come in a cabinet, but that was okay, because just a few days later, in ANOTHER thrift store, I found a Kenmore cabinet for $12.00.  Yeah, I know it's not really attractive, but the price was right and it does the job.

The whole she-bang!

So what is so special about this Kenmore that sets it apart from the Singers?  It's just this:  it does reverse stitch patterns AND has all metal gears.  That is a combination, that doesn't exist in a Singer machine.

(There are vintage mechanical Singers that do reverse stitch patterns with Flexi-Disc cams, and those are the later models in the Touch & Sew line.  However, these machines have nylon gears and those gears, at 40-50 years old, are at the end of their life span.  They can theoretically be replaced but it's not an easy job, and may not even be worth the effort and expense - ask me how I know!) 

Deteriorated nylon gears from a later model Singer Touch & Sew

But evidently Kenmore was still making its 158 machines with metal gears a good decade after Singer had switched to nylon gears to save production costs.  So what I have here is the best of both worlds, and is - frankly - a treasure!  It is not only a low shank (a bonus, because I can use the vast collection of attachments I already have) but it takes the double C cams which make some pretty spectacular stitches.

For a vintage mechanical machine like this, these "reverse" stitch patterns are made by a double cam that moves the feed forward and reverse to make more complex stitches (single cam patterns, on the other hand, make a line of stitching in the forward direction only.) 

The machine has a few built-in reverse stitches, but with the cams I made a sampler of some of the other very cool stitches this old machine can make.

Here it is making a fish stitch, right below the Ducks in a Row and Flowers in a Pot

I want to point out that the blanket stitch (Cam #35 which is shown in blue, fourth from the bottom in the photo above) makes a pretty decent overcast stitch if you use it with an overcast foot as shown below:

It also works quite well with my Flower Stitch foot - better, in fact, than any of my Singers (the 338 I bought to use with it failed BIGLY.) 

The rest of the cams in the set are regular forward stitch patterns mostly identical to the ones you find in the older Singers.  

So here's how the Kenmore 158.1730 stacks up:

• Vertical oscillating hook, Class 15 bobbin
• Low shank (uses all the same feet as my low shank Singers!)
• 1.0 amp internal motor with a toothed belt
• Twin needles
• 6mm stitch width 
• 8 built-in stitches (four single cam, four double cam)
• Takes single and double C cams
• Feed dog drop 
• Extra high presser foot lift
• Presser foot pressure adjustment
• Marked throat plate on left AND right
• Built-in light is focused directly on sewing area
• Reversible straight stitch/zigzag needle plate 

This machine doesn't sew especially fast (about 800 spm) so if that's what you're after, keep looking.  However, I am VERY impressed with how well it handles at slow speeds.  You can do very slow stitching - literally one stitch at a time - for fine control, without losing any piercing power.  Impressive!

Singer Bound Buttonhole Maker

Here is a fairly obscure vintage Singer product that might not rock your sewing world, but is kind of interesting.

First, let it be said that I don't really make bound buttonholes.  I did it on one dress (with a limp rayon challis that easily frayed) and decided I didn't care if I ever did it again.  But as with almost any vintage Singer doo-dad, I'm willing to try it just for the novelty factor.

This kit consists mainly of three things to "help" you make a bound buttonhole - any of which you could do just as well without:

1.  Pattern templates that you actually pin to the fabric and sew over to get your buttonhole exactly right.  You could draw or download your own, of course.

2.  Step-by-step instructions.  You can find those anywhere

3.  A flat metal tool that you use to press the folds that make the buttonhole opening.  You could press without it, this just makes it sharper.

Since this was an unused vintage item, I made copies of the pattern templates so I won't have to destroy the originals.

                   They come in sizes from 3/4" to 1-1/2".  I chose the 1-1/4" for my test sample

1.  Mark your fabric in order to line up the pattern

2.  Baste the pattern to the wrong side of your facing for the buttonhole

3.  Trim it, then pin it on the right side of your fabric over the lines you've drawn

 4.  Sew with a very short stitch along the parallel stitching lines.

And remove the paper pattern

5.  Now you get to use the little tool to iron the folds

6.  You slash down the middle of the facing piece (but not through the main fabric, yet.)

7.  Then you turn it around and slash the main fabric down the middle and angled up to the end of the stitching lines, like this (I drew in the lines for illustration)

8.  And turn the facing in through the front of the buttonhole to the back side

9.  Now the trickiest part is to stitch down the little triangles that were created when you cut it open. With the work right side up, fold back the fabric along the side of the facing, and that little triangle should "pop" up.  If not, coax it out and make sure you are catching it in the seam.  Sew as close as possible to this edge.

Do this on both sides and your back will look like this:

10.  On the front you can top stitch along that same line of stitching to reinforce it.

So there you go, in TEN "Easy Steps", you have a single bound buttonhole.  Now repeat for 6-8 times or however many of those are on your garment, and have fun with that!