Introduced by the revolutionary new slant shank 301 came the parade of Slant-O-Matics in the early 1960s. Low shanks were still made at the same time (the Style-O-Matic and Fashion Mate lines, for example) but the Slant-O-Matics were Top of the Line and are the ones most people are interested in obtaining today. With one exception, these were zigzag machines.
Singer 404 Slant-O-Matic
Singer 403 Slant-O-Matic
Singer 401 Slant-O-Matic
Singer 503 Rocketeer
Singer 500 Rocketeer
NOTE: All the Slant-O-Matics shown here (except the 404) use top hat cams which are interchangeable. There are 23 total that work on these machine numbered #0-#22. Usually 6-8 of them came with the machines when new and may or may not be included with a used machine. These, for example, are sold separately.
This was something I used to wonder about - the differences between Singer 401, 403, and 404
Slant-o-Matics. In the past year, I have acquired each of these machines and can now explain it to anyone else who is wondering.
I already covered the 404 in another post: it is a basic, but excellent straight stitcher. It is easy to use, practically indestructible, and fool proof. There is nothing fancy here, just great stitching.
Singer 404 (straight stitch)
Here I will explain the difference between the 401 and 403
Singer 403 "Semi-Automatic"
Singer 401 "Automatic"
The difference basically comes down to this. The 403 is "semi-automatic" because it zigzags only with a cam in place (it is shown here with the "0" cam that makes the zz stitch.) Other decorative stitches can be made by popping this cam out and substituting one of the other 22 top hat cams that are available. This is pretty simple, and straightforward - choose your stitch pattern and pop it in. You choose your stitch width and needle position as usual.
Singer 403 takes one cam at a time
Then you have the 401. It is considered "automatic" because the zigzag stitch is built-in via a camstack. This also includes a number of other fashion stitches which you arrive at by a somewhat complicated system of turning two lettered dials to get your stitch pattern. To add to the confusion, it also takes top hat cams to make different "combination" stitches. (I explain that in a little more detail here.)
Singer 401 with camstack, plus takes extra cam for "combination" stitches
In all other respects, these machines are identical. They both have horizontal (drop-in) bobbin with rotary hook, dual spool pins and dual upper tension for twin needle stitching, three needle positions, the elevated throat plate system, bobbin winder on the side, and a flip top for cam placement.
Here is a handy chart showing the 401 vs 403 stitch patterns
Now the 401 is known as the TOL (top of the line) machine for this series. Supposedly because you had built-in stitches, this was the better machine.
However...
If you mostly just straight stitch and zigzag - and only occasionally use any kind of decorative stitch - then I think the 403 is actually better because it is easier to use. With the 401 you have to dial in the combination AK3 to straight-stitch, and to zigzag you have to dial in BL + stitch width. With the 403 you just move your stitch width lever to "S" to straight stitch, and to whatever stitch width you want for zigzag. Easier! And honestly, by the time you figure out which combination of dials gives you a certain decorative stitch on the 401, you could have just popped a cam into the 403 and been on your way.
While the 401 is considered by many to be the gold standard among Slant-o-Matics, just know that the stitch quality and speed are identical to the 403. (The camstack is literally the only difference between the two.)
I love to make little videos of my machines stitching so here is a side-by-side comparison. (The 403 sounds a tad louder because it is sitting on a table while the 401 is installed in a cabinet which absorbs some of the sound.)
Singer 403
Singer 401
The stitch quality is also exactly the same, the two are indistinguishable (403 = blue/401 = red)
(NOTE: the difference between the 500 and 503 Rocketeers is basically the same as the 401 and 403 - one has a built-in camstack and the other requires a cam to zigzag .)
So every time I bring home another vintage Singer, I have a routine. I clean it, oil it, and make any minor repairs. Then I sew with it for a while until I feel comfortable with it (and can work out any bugs), then nine times out of ten I end up reselling it. I'm not sure about this one yet, it may be a keeper.
Like many vintage Singers, this 404 is Perfection in Straight Stitch. As seen in the following pictures, I've sewn satin, lace, tulle, fake fur, corduroy, and denim - and I've made buttonholes. There is something very peaceful about sewing on a no frills machine that never talks back - in all the hours I've used it so far, I haven't had a single hiccup, just perfect stitching with perfect tension every time.
On to the projects...
I was blessed with four sons, and loved raising boys. There was only one thing I kind of missed when they were growing up and that was sewing girly things. Happily, my boys have provided me with granddaughters so now I get to make up for lost time and indulge myself. The girls are getting new dolls for Christmas, so I've been doing a little stash-busting to make them clothes.
Oh, and I scoured the local thrift stores for an 18" doll to use for a model (only $6.99!) and although her hair is kind of whacked up, she'll do.
The faux fur was stashed from a Christmas stocking I made last year. The satin and tulle were from the half-price remnant bin. Only the striped fabric was bought off the bolt.
I'm not done yet, I'll be making as many outfits as I can until Christmas and I have lots more remnants to use. I think I can say that I've now officially bonded with the 404. I really can't find any fault with it, and other than needing to zigzag on my 503 occasionally, I could use this for everything I sew.
I don't need any more sewing machines, since I have what I consider the perfect line up for my needs:
301 for straight stitch and majority of my sewing
503 for zigzag and decorative stitches
221 for sewing on the go, and occasional backup topstitcher (the Featherweight has very precise control, making it easier to do fiddly topstitching sometimes)
BL3-408 for serging
(There's a 15-91 lurking around in there too, but its so big and heavy I rarely bring it out to play.)
That's really all I need for the sewing I do. But I have a soft spot for Slant-o-Matics and I've heard raves about the 400 machines. So when I saw this one on CL I snapped it up. It came in the nice table with its matching chair (in a godawful ugly upholstery, but hey - I can sew, can't I?) and the accessories.
(I'm selling the table, which I don't have room for, so its not pictured here.)
So what this machine is, basically, is the 301 with a drop-in bobbin and the spool spindle on top. Otherwise they're not much different.
The bobbin is identical to the 503, so I'm familiar with it.
The bobbin winder, though, is identical to the 301, and folds down flush with the machine. Oh, and it has the elevated throat plate like the Rocketeer rather than a feed-dog drop like the 301 - one other significant difference.
What matters most, of course, is how it sews. And it sews beautifully. Very fast, very smooth, and a perfect stitch just like the 301.
BOTTOM LINE: This is a very sturdy, basic machine. I've heard they were used in Home Ec classes because they are durable and easy to use, and I can see why. The threading and operation is all very simple and there is hardly anything a hapless student could do to wreck it (other than throwing it out a window.) It would give great results with little fuss - exactly what a basic machine should do.
If someone wanted a good beginner's machine, especially for teaching purposes, this would be at the top my list of recommendations. Forget the cheap plastic machines at Wal Mart for a beginner, they are (pardon my French) crap. Why not get a fuss-free, reliable, fast, and strong-stitching machine that will make learning to sew fun and easy? And I only paid $30 for this machine - anyone can afford that!
